Monday, November 10, 2014

Oran: 1942 and Now

From old WWII newsreels Oran is black and white like most of the history then.  GI photos were the same; carefully screened by official censors allowing only nondescript pictures of self with or without buddies.  My first impressions of Oran, Algeria where Operation Torch captured this strategic port in North Africa, are the same – black and gray.  It reminds me of the San Diego naval base without the color.   I noticed from the government photo that there was a “wet side” and “dry side” separated by the usual utility road.  There is an oil depot, several warehouses, lined up deuce-and-a-half trucks, and regulating (track cluster) train station.  What’s barely shown in the photo are the steep cliffs surrounding the waterfront.  Dad spent two years in North Africa and Oran arriving there with the D+3 convoy on November 11, 1942.  His discharge citing Departure November 1 and Arrival November 11 indicates he was on this 41 troop ship convoy from Britain. When he arrived he said bodies were still floating in the harbor. 

Other than the landings to the east and west and the harbor assault to neutralize the French fleet little is known by the public of anything else although Oran became the Cam Ranh Bay of its day.  Trucks, equipment, and supplies were landed at Mers-el-Kébir, Oran’s smaller sister harbor to the west.  A Provisional Ordnance Group (POG) made mostly up of the 87th Medium Maintenance Battalion and 55th Heavy Maintenance Regiment had custody of the trucks and maintained them.  The Transportation Corps under the Mediterranean Base Section (MBS) soon assigned their missions.  Because of theft, Oran’s blocked harbor had only one road: entrance and exit. 

In 1942 Oran had a cosmopolitan population of Spanish, French, and impoverished Arabs who were hired to help off-load the ships.  Old photos from the time aren’t kind to Oran.  Of course, there was a war going on with its inherent destruction, disease, and vice.  I’d read descriptions of North Africa from travel and history books written before the war, but I never appreciated the scenery until I started surfing You Tube to see what Oran looks like today.  It’s amazing.  I know there are always old and dingy parts to every city, but Oran seems to be a surprisingly beautiful and modern city.  Maybe it’s French money, but what You Tube reveals are long expanses of clean modern highways with grassy mediums, road-side palm trees, skyscrapers, cranes, modern cars, beautiful pastel colored apartment building, tastefully done cultural centers, and I saw only one stop light. I’ve included the best You Tube video of Oran I could find: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtJ3lbpSOmQ.  Halfway through the video you can see Ft. Santa Cruz (WWII stockade), on the mountain west of the harbor.  It’s in the drawing and is now a favorite tourist destination.