Wednesday, January 15, 2014

The Moors of Hardangervidda

On my way out of Olso and up into the mountains I made a rare stop into the train’s tea coach.  In fact it was the only diner I ever encountered on a train.  When we were still at the tree line I looked up and over the aisle I noticed the biggest couple I'd ever seen.  The Norwegian fellow was 7 at least feet tall with hands bigger than a catcher’s mit.  His girlfriend, sitting at the table with him, was just as tall.  No wonder the English in olden times feared their raids.  I recall King Harald and the Battle of Stamford Bridge in 1066.

Passengers leave summer and late season haying to find mountain crags, water, fiords, and gorges.  We passed Hönefoss and Gol.  A little after we passed the highest point it started snowing in Geilo where several passengers departed with skis slung over their shoulders.  I really appreciated of the warmth of the coaches.  I’m not used to snow in September.  On the way to Begen on Norway’s west coast there are 200 snow sheds that prevent snow from blocking the railroad tracks.  The 300 mile line is called Bergensbanen  (the Bergen Railway or NSB).  There are also snow screens like the one in the picture to the right. 

Hardangervidda is a moor and there’s nothing there - just terrible cold desolation – no trees and nothing alive that I could see.  It reminded me of the Grampian Mountains in Scotland, only on a much larger scale.  There are, however, some small cabins, perhaps used for fishing during the warmer months.  Once in a while a fiord would come into view and they are spectacular with their obvious depth on up to their snow-capped peaks above them.  Travel books say this is the place where battle scenes from The Empire Strikes Back were filmed.
I remember seeing many crystal clear boat anchorages during the descent to the level ground not far from Bergen.  The entire length of chain or rope was visible down to the rocks on the bottom.  Many Norwegians have to take a boat to get to their boats because there are no docks and nothing to tie onto.  I can appreciate this lower level because I'm not used to mountains or the cold.  In their own special way, I appreciate the mountains too because they are so beautiful, but the people who ski there must be really tough or have a lot of time on their hands.