Monday, December 23, 2013

Oslo, the Quiet City

I remember how clean the Oslo train station was with flowers lining the outside walls.  On a long walk I saw the famous Monolith which is shown in nearly all art history books.  Contrary to rumor, it was not where George W. Bush got the idea for stacking nude insurgent prisoners.  After all, these nudes are on a much higher column.  Supposing it was; it could not have been in worse taste like The Scream by Norwegian painter Edvard Munch.  I honestly don’t see how the cultural elites get away with it.  They must have deep pockets; who else would buy the stuff?  Look at the latest tribute to the rifle’s head shot: Francis Bacon’s Three Studies of Lucian Freud that went for an all-time record of $142,000,000.  Everyone at Christie’s New York can take the rest of the year off, but that’s another story.

On Karl Johansgt (street) I saw many of Olso’s old businesses: Adelsten, Brodrene Johnsten, Kaffistova, Pelo, Andvora, and The Scotsman, an upscale restaurant, that’s still there.  I enjoy the new technology of Google Street Level that allows me to look where I’ve been and see the new changes.  Of course, in 1977 the girls were wearing clogs and bell bottoms.  Now they don’t look as stylish and even if they did, where would they go?  At the time I didn’t see much nightlife in Oslo and I suppose it’s the same now.  Perhaps I’m wrong because so many years have passed.  What I saw then were only some small kiosks.  Even Liverpool at night came alive with neon signs advertising a robust night life.
 
About dark, I went back to the hotel for the only tub bath I had in all my backpacking days.  I always mention these little things because travel isn’t always what you see on TV.  You arrive.  Nobody knows you and you don’t know where to go.  Sometimes the tourist offices aren’t even near the train station – an irony I discovered more than once.  Several times I could have ended up sleeping in the local cemetery with shady characters from many parts of the world. 

The Norwegians were into smorgasbords like American are into buffets.  This was different than hoping for a McDonald’s or scavenging through my backpack for left overs and I made the opportunity count just as I do now in retirement.  Oslo is at the base of huge mountain ranges and who’d guess where I’d find my next meal going up into the snowcapped waste lands above the tree line and they are formidable.