Friday, November 8, 2013

Frederikshavn: The Baltic Culture

Frederikshavn is on the northeast coast of Jutland and lies directly across from Goteborg, Sweden.  After a short trip by train from Alborg I decided to stop over for the night before heading for Sweden the following morning.  Frederikshavn is a perfect example of a thriving sea coast town with all kinds of Baltic Sea traffic including cargo ships, Danish naval vessels, and ferries scurrying in every direction.  One, the Destroyer F346, didn’t make a good picture because it was gray on a day with clouds, and besides, I felt like a spy photographing it.

 
I watched from my telephoto lens two crew members of the DSR Reefer (refrigerated) Service  tend their ship, the F. Freiligarth.  A man and a woman were on its bridge swabbing the deck and coiling some ropes on a life boat.  It occurred to me that maybe these crew members were more than 9-to-5 employees.  Perhaps they lived on board even while docked and maybe they were its captain and first mate – literally.  The more I thought about it, the more I considered what I was seeing was perhaps a way of life typical in the cold and dismal Baltic.  What I witnessed was a seafaring culture that stretched all the way around the Baltic to Stockholm, Helsinki, St. Petersburg, Kaliningrad, Copenhagen, and back.


There was my ferry, the Stena Danica, which passed between Frederikshavn and Goteborg several times a day.  Fortunately, my hotel room was on a higher floor and the light was temporarily good enough for some decent photos.  The ferry had slipped into her berth with the assistance of an underwater propulsion system.  In 1977 and even being in the Marines at the time, I’d never head of bow thrusters.  The photo shows their wake.  As it drew near to the dock, the tip of the bow opened up like a parrot’s beak and dropped a ramp for departing passengers and vehicles.  I’d never seen anything like it.  She could take on 2,274 passengers and 550 cars.  The cruise ship, Peter Wessel, is docked behind and to her right.