All
that kept these wheels on was two retaining pins held in place by a collar on
each axle. I had to drill the head of
one pin off because it was upside down jamming against a collar recess that
functions as a tightening increment. If
I’ve not mentioned it before, the two wheels have to come off at the start in
order to have access to cleaning the area around the axle. It’s a primitive slip-off slip-on procedure;
no lug nuts. I’m puzzled about how the
wheels are lubricated on the axle. Do
you just slap on some grease between changes?
I did see that each wheel has an indentation on the inside. Maybe it’s where the grease is applied.
Notice
on the starboard side and the huge sprocket with its main drive chain in the
disengaged position. Also, on the
sprocket’s grayish plate where its surface joins the inside of the wheel, there
is a “dog ear” that catches the hub when the chain is engaged. The wheel just spins and makes a clicking
noise when the dog ear is disengaged. A
simple machine like this old John Spreader has many feet of chain that drive
the auger and flippers. There’s more
underneath and I was tempted to paint all of them black for contrast. Because of the rust I just brushed all the
chain with motor oil. It’s quicker. I have to mention again I didn’t have a power
washer nor did I have an air gun. On the
ground is my creeper which is an old Sea Bee “DRMO” 782 field gear foam
mattress. Don’t leave home without it.
Luckily
the wheels were in excellent condition and all I had to do is find a welding
shop to sandblast the old paint off.
That cost $25 per wheel and included the primer. I was disappointed that I couldn’t find treads
to match the original tires. The new
ones were BKs 750-20, an implement tire. They cost me $220 each with a $5.00 disposal
charge per tire, but the cost is worth it if for no other reason that John
Deere yellow spoked wheels give the spreader contrast and character. They told me at the tire shop since the
machine is ground driven the wheels go on in reverse for more traction.